Wyoming Research and Information > General Wyoming Living Information
What's the best truck for Wyoming?
BAR BAR 2:
We have five trucks here on the ranch with all three makers represented. All three have there good points and bad points. The ages of the different trucks span almost 30 years and each one was bought with a specific purpose in mind. We have bought brand new pickups in the past, but that is a mistake never to be repeated. With the way new trucks are set up and all of the nanny state BS incorporated into their design, I wouldn't have one if it was given to me.
I am not a mechanic, but my next truck will be a custom model. I will most likely start off with a 79 Ford 3/4 or 1ton single rear wheel 4x4. After I get done beefing up the suspension and drivelines I plan to drop in a beefed up 12v Cummins along with a new mechanical tranny. There are places to buy aftermarket parts at a reasonable price in order to replace all that is wore out. The plan is to end up with a brand new old truck. Yes, it will cost a little bit, but that cost will not be anywhere near that of a new truck. I will have something that I actually like and is way more reliable than anything being turned out today.
Our newest truck is an 01 model F250 and if it weren't for the job I have, we never would have bought it. Everything being turned out nowadays is so computer dependent, the oldtime shade tree mechanic can't work on it. They are starting to put "Black Boxes" on new vehicles like planes have and the information derived from them is being used against the vehicle owners. It is still being debated on who actually owns the information contained in the black box, but insurance companies are giving discounts to those who willingly sign over the rights to that information. Some states are trying to pass legislation to give the cops that information in the case of vehicle accidents. Just the thought of all this pisses me off. If I buy a vehicle, I sshould own everything associated with that vehicle. The insurance companies, nor the cops should have any access to any of it unless I willingly give it to them. You can't get around or bypass the black box either. The automakers are designing vehicles to be inoperable if the black box is bypassed.
Putting my tinfoil hat on here, but I think one of the reasons for the "Cash For Clunkers" was to get as many older vehicles off the road as possible. Look at all of the vehicles now that come standard with a GPS. Who has seen the Chevy commercial where the vehicle is stolen and Onstar shut down the vehicle and the cops catch the thieves? That technology is becoming more and more common. Who can say what potential that ability will have in the future? They don't want the people driving older vehicles for a reason. It is those reasons that makes me want to have nothing other than older vehicles.
Anyhow, I got off topic. If you don't need to pull trailers or haul alot, get a Nissan 4x4. those damn things run forever. If you do need to haul some stuff, get a 3/4ton of any of the top 3 no newer than mid80's. Go to NAPA and buy a spare electronic ignition module and you should be fine.
Tex
Old Ironsights:
--- Quote from: Flight-ER-Doc on October 17, 2013, 07:58:50 AM ---One thats paid for and still runs
--- End quote ---
The older and more electronic-free the better.
FlyingDevildog:
"What is the best truck for Wyoming"?
I would think any 4x4 truck would be a good truck for Wyoming.
Kelly did point out one thing, What are you going to do with it?
While I may not be in Wyoming right now, I do plan to get there someday, I do have a nice truck.
It is a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. I have a topper on the back, so anything in the bed does stay dry.
It has a 318 engine, and over 270,000 miles under it belt.
With any vehicle, how you take care of it, well tell you how long it will last.
But I also agree with everyone else here about all the BS that is going into new vehicles now.
Being a mechanic, I feel 1998 is about the newest you can get and still be able to work on it yourself, without some form of computer to help you.
also something else to thing about, Fuel, as in what type.
With a diesel, you can also run it on WVO, waste vegetable oil, http://www.goldenfuelsystems.com/
Or with a gas engine, you can convert it to run on wood, http://www.driveonwood.com/
But most of the newer vehicle do not like the conversions.
So in the end, what do you want to do with your truck?
Dawg
bobcat:
FDD:
--- Quote ---So in the end, what do you want to do with your truck?
--- End quote ---
That is the first question to answer; which will determine size, engine, trans, transfer case, bed length or flatbed or maybe just SUV...commuter, puller, etc.
Next is how many FRN's your willing to part with.
Then what can you find...
Random thoughts:
All of my trucks are 4WD. You may not need it much, but when you do, it can be a lifesaver. You'll likely need it even more in WY. I've gotten around in modest snow with a CRV, but if there were drifts or I slid into a ditch, I'm cooked. AWD is handy, but not enough IMO if you end up living in the country on gravel roads that have iffy snow removal.
I certainly agree that buying a new truck is not the best idea as the initial 1-3 yr depreciation is needless waste of FRNs. Not to mention higher insurance, sales tax, tags. Added complication with electronics will take your DIY skills to a whole new level. More tools, etc. But it can be done. Factory manual and a group of knowledgeable friends.
Like most things in life, it's a compromise.
I drive old stuff. Five trucks at the moment ::), all with various jobs. All over 100K. A gasser over 300K, diesel approaching 200K. Some never leave the property. One is being rebuilt. Doing your own repair work will be important to you in lower population density areas. Yes, some have electronics that are both a help and a curse. ABS on my 2nd generation Dodge is a $%^# curse. I'd gladly keep my electronic ignition and fuel injection on my gassers as starting and running in the winter is improved immeasurably. No long cranking, choke issues, vacuum pull off issues and no need to carry gumout or ether for spritzing the carb. Trying to start a carbureted vehicle in below zero weather can be a serious challenge. Starting a diesel in cold weather requires preheating to get the best results, not to mention being aware of the gel point of your current tankful.
While diesel has it's place for pulling, it costs more to buy and own. In general, parts are more expensive, fuel is more expensive and it takes a little different TLC than a gasser. Diesels are more efficient, but the current D2 to gasoline FRN ratio negates that. They make up that difference with gobs of torque over a gasser of similar displacement. Nice thing about the electronic diesels is that they are easy to hop up with a black box or two. I wouldn't be without mine, but it's not a daily driver as much as it is the designated puller of the group.
Having owned a dually in winter weather, I will tell you it is not as good as a single rear wheel. Tall skinny tires work the best. Big fat wide tires do poorly in snow, particularly heavy slush. Unless you are pulling a large RV or stock trailer, stick with single rear wheel. Cheaper on tires, too. And the way gravel chews up tires prematurely, that can be a significant expense with a dually.
BB2 has the right idea with 'building your own'. Especially the 12V Cummins. Robust and no electronics. Yeaaaa! Simple is better. The only electrical item is the fuel shut off solenoid. They can be hopped up, but not as easily as adding a black box. At least not as much as a black box, especially with electronic injectors. Some days, I wish my 2nd generation Dodge had the 12V with an in-line fuel pump instead of the 24V and troublesome VP44 injection pump. Arg. Older 7.3 Turbocharged (International) Fords will get it done too and a little quieter than the Cummins. The older GM diesels had some issues until they came out with the completely redesigned Duramax.
FDD, IMHO, your 98 Ram with the 318 is a keeper if it's in good general shape and suited for the Cowboy State. You've done well to get it to 270K. Not everyone is savvy enough to do that. Crate 318's can be had from Chrysler and other sources. You may even be able to upgrade to a warmed up 360 crate motor with minimal effort. Not sure where you are (not being nosy), but keep in mind that Wyoming is 4000ft minimum and it takes proportionally more power to do the same work that would be done at ~sea level. Chances are you'll be hitting much higher elevations from time to time depending on where you settle. Just a consideration.
YMMV
Cyclonesteve:
--- Quote from: MamaLiberty on October 17, 2013, 05:26:57 AM ---Take a look at this site, Steve. http://ericpetersautos.com/
Here is an article with discussion thread on trucks specifically.
http://ericpetersautos.com/2013/06/22/f-150-or-other/
http://ericpetersautos.com/2012/04/24/2012-chevy-silverado-1500/
http://ericpetersautos.com/2011/12/09/no-more-compact-trucks-for-us/
--- End quote ---
That Australian Ford Ranger looks interesting. I wonder how tough it is to import a vehicle? :)
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